Thursday, October 25, 2012

Brunei- Chapter 7: KK

KK, for those-in-the-know, or Kota Kinabalu: our destination for a few days during half-term.

9.50pm is 9.50pm. But for some bizarre reason, ask me what my mind was thinking about that day when I booked, I read 9.50am. So, there we were at the airport that morning, 8.20, ready to check in for our flight, except that there was no flight announced on the  board and there I started to ... worry! We had to go back home for the day and come back later that evening. So, we did.

Our hotel was... awful, really. Won't even mention the name but never again. Luckily KK boasts beautiful islands a mere 15 minutes by boat and we spent our first day on Manukan Island. True bliss! Walking along the wooden jetty to reach the island, we were greeted by clear water with myriads of schools of fish swimming quite happily. The sky was glorious, the beach was delightful; snorkelling and swimming among the corals and striped blue and white fish definitely lived up to our expectations. A dream day, exactly what we had wished for. Then, around 4pm it started to rain. Our return was booked for 5pm. Nothing was going to spoil our day, though the return to KK was brutal: the drizzle turned into strong wind and lashing rain, coupled with fog which meant that not only were we soaked, cold but the guy sailing the boat was having a hard time finding his way, slowing down every so often. Still, he'd done the route millions of times, our fate was not in that dire a state as it could have been. Eventually we reached the jetty and walked back to our hotel for a well-deserved shower and a nice dinner out.

Our second day was spent on an another island: Sapi Island, a small one facing Gaya Island, the bigger one of all the islands. And again, the promise of a delightful day by the sea, snorkelling, swimming, resting... and being beaten by vicious black fish with a white spot. It seemed they were defending their corals, bless them. But, by God, were these small beasts vicious! And unafraid to come face-to-face with you when you were snorkelling. Quite something. Later on in the afternoon a monitor lizard was also swimming, and a bit too close to Leo for our own good. Initially it looked like a water-snake which is not much better, so we had a bit of a scare there- for a short while, that is, until it went on its way, probably feeling safer out of our way too. This time, though, we didn't stay as late as 5pm since it seems that the weather is trustworthy and reliable in its schedule. It rains everyday at about that time of day. Our return to shore was much more pleasant. Dinner of grilled fish and gambas (for the boys!) at the night market- delicious.

All in all, a lovely break. We had never been to KK before and chose to enjoy the islands this time around. Next time, we'll head for the national park and Mount Kinabalu.


Sunday, October 21, 2012

Brunei- Chapter 6: Humour and bills

How to reconcile humour and paying the bills? Can it ever be fun to pay the bills? These might be questions that come to mind when reading the title of this chapter and yet, there's no mistake.

I was asked the other day what were in my view the biggest differences between China and Brunei, and I don't think I gave a good answer. Here are two: dealing with civil servants and the cost of utility bills. Whenever we had to go to a bureau in China, whoever was on the other of the desk would either not look at you and wave instead, or look at you sternly and eventually wave or shake his head in refusal- most times than none. You always felt like you bothered them and to be fair that is probably a correct reading of the situation. Here in Brunei, we provide entertainment! When Seb had to go and put units on the electricity card, he was nonplussed at the scene that had just taken place.
"How much, Sir?"
"100 dollars, please?" Not knowing how much it cost nor how much it would last, he thought that would be see us through a few weeks. Our only comparison was China. Peals of laughter came out of the two ladies behind the counter.
"Alright. So, how much is it? How does it work? What's the minimum, please?"
"Minimum 6 dollars."
"Ok. So, can I put 6 dollars on the card, please?" This sounded ridiculously low and he thought he'd have to go again soon but to avoid more laughter... Unfortunately, the ladies thought buying 6 dollars' worth of electricity was hysterically funny and they redoubled their laughter! Seb laughed too, more out of embarrassment at not knowing, not understanding why he had been such an entertainment to them. We still don't know to this day. This episode would fall under what is called, "cultural experiences". Still, 6 dollars of electricity lasted two weeks; that's about 30kwai.

If we thought electricity was cheap in China, Brunei produces more than needed, hence the cost. Water, though becoming rare in many places, is not only abundant here, but there's no word to describe its cost. If cheap applies to the cost of electricity, then water is "free": 5 dollars (or 25kwai) for two months. We'll just ignore that we have to pay a water bill as for that matter, it had gradually reached summits in China. I went back twice to the office to make sure I had heard right. There was no way it could be so low, and yet it is!


Sunday, October 14, 2012

Brunei- Chapter 5: Jungle walking and the rain!


Fairy tales! Princesses and princes! Sultans and … Life isn’t a fairy tale. So be it! Time to be real again, and though there is more to life than fairy tales, is there really? Some experiences are beautiful and deeply gratifying like walking in the jungle (yes, the transition is awkward and weak... :) ).

Tasek Lama, Markuching, Shabandar and more. And no, it doesn’t get boring after a few times. There’s something magical every time (as well as “good exercise”, this Chinese guy kept saying to us today every time he passed us, funny!) about walking along the paths in the Bruneian jungle. Magnificent trees, with incredible roots that have fashioned paths and steps, so intertwined and snake-like you would feel like Tarzan at times… The beauty of the scenery from the ridges once you’ve reached to the top. The peace these trodden paths offer you makes you feel at one with nature, and although this has perhaps become a pedestrian way of looking at it, a cliche even, I don’t care. I get the same pleasure every time as if it were the first time. Now, how often does this happen, people? Exactly!


Nature is truly amazing and we forget too easily, sadly, particularly when living in large cities such as Beijing where, well, I will never join in the criticisms about the weather but I will say that nature has definitely struggled with man and man has so far conquered the city. Brunei seems to have made peace with nature and blended with it as best as was needed, however. And then, it rains! I’ve always hated the rain and that is probably one of the reasons why I loved Beijing so much- it’s dry. Coming from Normandy, I just hate the cold, damp feeling that the rain brings with it. Here, however, it’s always hot and yes, it does rain everyday but mostly at night and when it pours in the day, it’s actually fun and beautiful because it’s still hot. No shivers down your spine, no head colds, no feeling like a wet dog! Quite an upgrade. To tell the truth, I was worried about one thing only before moving to Brunei and it was my sheer hatred for the rain. Not anymore!

Link to the video of a storm!
http://youtu.be/4FbMED1mRTA



Friday, October 12, 2012

Brunei- Chapter 4: The Princess...


I would not normally talk about school here but…when you suddenly get a glimpse of the 1001 Nights in the land of the Sultan of Brunei, well, it deserves a mention.

Red carpet; a throne facing the stage; two armchairs one meter behind the throne on either side of it making a triangular shape; VIP chairs on each side of the read carpet and us, the commoners seated comfortably at the International Convention Centre to witness the official launch of the Polio Points initiative on Wednesday in the presence of Princess Sarah, the school patron, is an experience to remember. High Commissioners, Ambassadors and Bruneian ministers also attended this high profile ceremony which put our school in the media spotlight and there was something definitely grand and solemn about it. 

The uniqueness of this project is indescribable, really, so here are two links for you:

Princess Sarah, a mother who brought her children to school in jeans and t-shirt that very morning, went back to the palace to get ready for this launch. I love that! Cinderella is real! A modern princess even if the protocol involved is definitely antiquated (all guests had to be seated half an hour before she arrived and had to remain seated half an hour after she left; every guest speaker had to approach her, be accompanied by a student and bow at her; her personal guard had to be on stage with her and a few feet away from her etc…) and burdensome.  The whole school arrived way before it started, however, once the ceremony began, silence reigned and it wasn’t just because it was to launch this beautiful initiative that our students are so proud of, I believe it was because Bruneians respect and love their Princess. The Royal family sends their children to our school, they are treated like normal people and most importantly are given a childhood but when duty calls… :) 

Thursday, September 13, 2012

Brunei- Chapter 3: Finding the balance...



by counteracting the mild frustrations and life’s simple pleasures.

Brunei and the internet, first of all. Coming from the Great Fire Wall of China and enjoying full access to the internet is great (no, my life doesn’t depend on it but it makes it easier…). Having said that, when the connection suddenly goes, the effortless convenience the internet creates is likewise highly frustrating. So, late in the afternoon last Wednesday, the sky darkened rapidly and we knew we were in for heavy rain (but we’re still new to Brunei and its quirks). Lightning struck several times and it was not a mere shower, but a great storm with sheets of water falling from the heavens. A little while later, the internet went. We put it down to the storm. It took us a few days to realise that in actual fact it was the modem that was defective and had stopped flashing. It was a coincidence. In the meantime I had gone to the office at school to report it, other teachers had been to “complain” too (whenever you go to the office, they call it a complaint. Bruneians hate confrontation and will avoid it at all costs, so making enquiries or reporting a problem turns into a complaint). After a couple of days of total nothing, I went back to the office and this time it was becoming a complaint. Noor was talking very fast about how she had called this person and that person, and that this person had told her this and that. The speed of her speech was to reinforce the fact she had been on the ball about the internet. I did gather, though, through the barrage of words, that other families were still waiting to be connected which was an entirely different issue. At that point, I managed to stop her and told her our situation. Indeed, it was different. She said she would call another service. I went back later that day and another barrage of words, and a phone number and a name scribbled quickly on a piece of paper and handed to me. Right! The lady who received my call told me there had already been calls made. Hooray! So, how long would this take? Not sure. Right! On our way home, we decided to stop at the shop where we had signed all the papers etc… There, another lady suggested we call another number… The following day, realising the modem was not flashing and was showing clear signs of malfunction, I chanced it at the shop, hoping for a replacement. Oh, sorry, mam, you got this modem from the technician not from the shop. Only the technician can replace it. But you work for the same company, don’t you? Yes, but this is the shop. Alright! When can I hope to see the technician, please? Another call was made by the lady. You called yesterday, mam. Yes, I did. The technician will come. Good, but when? In a few days, mam.

There are times when however hard you try and think of ways to sort things out fate is against you. I feel bad for the recipients of the “complaints”. They are victims of the flowchart of the company they work for and it can’t be fun. They are entirely reliant on the efficiency of the technicians. Still, I don’t expect this company to reduce our bill even if we can’t use the service we are paying for for days or weeks. They’ll still charge us!

No point in brooding. I never had the internet for the first half of my life and was perfectly happy. Which leads me to the balance. If Saturday morning was not successful, the afternoon proved much better. We had been told there was an IKEA shop/depot but had not found it the first time we were looking for it. Our hunt for garden furniture had been put on hold until we would find either that shop or a reasonable place. It may sound silly, but I was really happy when we not only found the shop but were also able to buy a wooden table and chairs that would do very well. It would be delivered and installed the following day. Perfect. We continued our shopping with going back to the first nursery we found and bought several plants. Today (Sunday), it really felt lovely to have lunch outside under the alcove. Gradually, our house is feeling like home again.

I guess patience is what transpires out of these two anecdotes.

Today, our internet connection is back! It took Seb to go to the main office, ask for a replacement modem, and for it to be configurated. All in all a couple of hours. We'll know what to do next time! 





The sky is magnificent, everyday!



Sunday, September 2, 2012

Brunei- Chapter 2: Discovering Brunei


Chapter 2: Discovering Brunei

It has only been three weeks but three full and fulfilling weeks!

Living in such a warm weather means making the most of the opportunity to spend as much time outside as possible, enjoying our garden and the space it offers us. With that in mind, we have been searching, or hunting should I say, for garden furniture. Hunting is the correct term and that has come with frustration too, sadly. As we have been from furniture shop to furniture shop, our hopes of finding what we are looking for is dwindling away every time we go to a new store. The choice is very slim, almost inexistent. What’s for sale is either a set of 4 chairs with a small table, barely stable, or a very expensive set of sofas. And why? We have come to the conclusion that there is no market for it. Strange, right? But after three weeks in sweet Brunei, we have realised that Bruneians do not spend any time outside at all. We never see anyone in gardens. It’s so hot and humid that in actual fact, they live indoors with the air-con on all the time! “They love their air-con,” a phrase said many times which has taken its full meaning as we have been trying to buy outdoor furniture! The hunt goes on…

Which brings me to the weather! We are almost on the equator and it is hot! Hot and humid! Yes, it rains, pours down, actually, but unlike other countries where when it rains, it cools down, here, it remains hot. One day last week, as I came out of my classroom after it had rained heavily for a while, I entered a sauna. What a strange experience! It was literally steaming outside and everyone sort of rushed to their next room to find some cool, however artificial. But, we’ll get used to it. The weather, I’ve been told, does not change. Good or bad, it is predictable. There used to be a “dry” and a “wet” season, now there is a wet season and a wetter one! That seems to be a running joke nowadays. Despite it all, I think it was the right choice for us. We have lived in all sorts of places, from grey and constant drizzle in Birmingham, to very cold Beijing in the winter, and anything in between; wet summers in France, beautifully sunny Italy etc… Wearing light clothes, shorts and t-shirts at the weekends all year long can’t be bad!

Being able to say, “you can count on the weather!” is not something we’ve done a lot. So, with the warmth and the sun comes a different range of activities and entertainment. The beach is a 15-minute drive from our house. Fantastic! Muara beach is at the tip of the peninsula (if my geography term is correct and that remains to be said but for now, it’ll do!) and unlike any other beach we’ve been to, was a new experience. Of course, swimming in the sea was not new to us, but wait! Bruneians love food. “You’re digressing,” I hear you say. They’re not the only people on our blue planet to love food, I know, but they really do and since they don’t like being exposed to the sun too much, when you get to the beach, there’s a very large park with hugely tall trees shading you and protecting you from the fierce rays of the sun. There, you have permanent bbqs for people to use. Families will go not just to the beach, but mainly will go picnicking and spend the day in the shade of those magnificent trees. A great idea, right! Whilst we were not prepared for that, we still enjoyed swimming in a very warm water. And what was surprising to me in particular was that I must have been the only woman on the beach for a long time. A few came after a while and of course were fully dressed. It made me feel almost as embarrassed as going to a nudist beach, except that this time the roles were reversed! Never mind. Knowing that we can go to the beach any time we want is such a luxury we’ve often dreamed of. Now, it’s reality.

Besides the sea, we sampled the Olympic swimming-pool too and that is only a few minutes from our house (2 dollars/10rmb per adult, 1 dollar per child; never seen anything so cheap). The whole sports complex is stylish, and I would say fairly new. I believe Brunei hosted the Asian games a few years back, hence the facilities: stadium, tennis courts, several pools etc… very impressive and so cool for it to be so close! Going to the pool was delightful. We felt refreshed. It will undoubtedly become a weekly activity, probably after school- cooling down and exercising. Most expats go to the Polo Club, or the RBA club or some sort of club to exercise, swim etc… We have opted for a closer and in our eyes a more practical solution.

And of course, on the subject of exercising and activities, jungle walking is very attractive and excellent fitness in this weather. We went back to Tasek Lama and did another walk. Jerudong Park and Markuching are next on our list of places. And I am sure we will be as awed by the scenery as we have been by Tasek Lama National Park. Jerudong Park is also home to families of monkeys which will delight Leo, no doubt.

To close this chapter, let me end with our first visit to Kuala Lurah, on the Brunei-Malaysia border. Brunei is a dry country, no news there. Selling alcohol is forbidden and comes probably with a prison sentence if ever you are caught, but consumption is allowed, a confusing state of affairs for young people, undeniably. For us, it means going to Malaysia to buy our fix and bring it back to our home in sweet but dry Brunei. The nearest border is Kuala Lurah and boy, do they know what fruitful business they’ve got there. As we couldn’t take our hired car over the border, we asked if we could walk to the nearest shop. The answer is yes. We then crossed as pedestrians and discovered, not without surprise though I had been given a pretty accurate description of the place, what a seedy border town it is. To be fair, I believe, but we have yet to go further, that the “proper” town is a few kilometres away from the border. What is there is basic and basically you have your off-licence, cafes and cheap restaurants, with waitresses ready for anything. It will not become one of our regular places to eat and relax of an evening, just a quick stop to buy our due and go.

Shopping, driving and more to come next…

Monday, August 27, 2012

Brunei- Chapter 1: Arriving and settling in


Week 1 has come and gone, with its share of anticipation, excitement and mild frustration. Brunei is after all an Asian country!

Upon arrival at the airport, we were met by the Secondary Principal, his family and the Operations Manager, Leona, a bubbly energetic woman. Though she “bosses” people around, her motherly personality means she will look after us and make sure we have everything we need. “No point in calling other people, they will always call me anyway so you might as well call me first!” This was established within the first week and I have to say that to know you can call someone who will have the answers and will help is not to be scorned at, even if the form might be lacking.  

Our first impressions of the country was through its airport, and although not very big and not very busy, it was very much like any airport: getting our visas on arrival requested patience as the clerk stamped and handwrote and signed and stamped again each one of our passports. Luckily there was no queue. Perhaps the one aspect that differs is that you are restricted to how much alcohol you bring into the country and you have to declare it filling in a form- but we had been warned and played the game dutifully.

Whilst we were driven to our new abode- a large house with a garden off one of the main roads called Jalan Muara, which happens to be a few kilometres from the school, a few kilometres from the city centre, Bandar Seri Begawan or BSB, and a few kilometres from anywhere really, it hit me that we had turned a new leaf in our book and were starting all over again. A slight pang of a mixture of sadness and anxiety took over my entire body as I realised for the first time in 5 years that we were not on holiday but that we would have to learn everything again. China had become our home and after each holiday we would go back to familiar grounds. Not this time. That feeling, however, passed quickly and arriving at our house where we were greeted by Noor, the HR manager who is as bubbly with laughing eyes as Leona, it helped forget how I had felt a little while back.  We had seen pictures of the house but what a great feeling it was to actually be there. I don’t think we ever lived in such a big house before- 4 bedrooms upstairs with two bathrooms, a large kitchen, a larger living-room, another room/office and another bathroom downstairs. Not to mention the garden, big enough to set our badminton net, play football and grow plants and trees, a newly-discovered passion of Augustin’s. Nothing is small in this country, apparently. And since our first day in Brunei, we have been invited to a couple of people and it is true, their houses are big too.

Living on Jalan Muara feels like living in the countryside. Smaller roads, called Simpangs, are off the main roads and take you to habitations. Easy enough to get around. Along the roads, mini-marts and small complexes offer pretty much everything you need. For more, the city centre of BSB is just down the road; the beaches, national parks etc… are also only down the road.

Starting again meant learning a lot and being ready for surprises. Our first big surprise was that our shipment had arrived (on time!), had been cleared and delivered so when we got there, all our boxes were waiting for us. What a relief! Listening to stories from other new staff, some would have to wait several weeks and that is not fun. We were able to unpack and settle in very quickly. And now, it feels like home. Another huge surprise was our car! The school had rented a car for a month for all new members of staff to help us while we were settling in. I knew that we would have to get a car but I didn’t realise how crucial it actually was. The roads are not biker-friendly to say the least; we may have only encountered a handful of people on bikes since we’ve been here. We’ll still ride but to go to school, shopping and whatnot, driving is preferable, allows so much more and since we are not strictly speaking in town, there are no taxis you can hail. There are a few buses but we have yet to work out where they stop and at what time. It seems sensible to use a car.

We spent our first weekend getting acquainted with our new surroundings, finding places to shop, trying out new restaurants… The following week was induction week and it felt more like social events than work planned by the school- not that I will complain. The management of the school was keen for new teachers and their families to make them feel welcome and show them around in order to establish a routine, I think. Not a bad idea!

First on the agenda was getting the medical done for me in order to get our Identity Cards. With your IC, you can buy or rent a car etc… Next, sort out the internet which proved a hurdle and a major drawback: no connection for 4 weeks. I should mention that we arrived a week before the end of the Ramadan and this changes everything. To top it all, the Sultan has generously declared an extra day of holiday. A new country, a new culture, a new way of doings things. We found that trying to eat out around 6pm during the fasting period was not a good idea: it is the time when the Muslims break their fast and all the restaurants, and I mean all of them are booked up. We were turned away a few times and decided it would be wise to either order a takeaway or delay. However, since we couldn’t get in one of the restaurants we had been recommended, we found others that we really liked. Nothing will deter us from going out, it seems. So Sagar, a North-Indian restaurant, might just become one of our regular haunt; the food is so good, we had dinner there once, and takeout the following day.

During our first week into our new life in Brunei, we went on a boat ride through the mangrove and were lucky enough to see some monkeys and lizards lazying in the sun on the banks of the river. There is a water village across the waterfront where people live in stilt houses and water taxis take you to visit some of the houses or the school. Quite a sight we had not seen before. An array of colours and houses on legs living on the river! On the second day there was a walk in the jungle organised for later in the afternoon when the crunch of the sun would not be so fierce. The city of Bandar is built in the jungle and one of the national parks, Tasek Lama, offers walks and pathways of different levels of difficulty. Leo went on the easy one that leads to the waterfall whilst Seb and I chose the more harduous one which was rendered harder by the heat. How we sweated! But the views were absolutely magnificent and so rewarding, it was a joy. Another walk was planned for the following day which we wanted to do but Leo took ill and we had to decline. Sadly too, we also had to decline going to Temburong, a day out we had been looking forward to and missed out, this time, on one of the most amazing day trips on offer in Brunei. It will only give us a better excuse to take our visitors there! On the Tuesday morning of that week, HR had planned a bus trip to show us around the city. I was never one to enjoy guided tours and this one was as predicted: I couldn’t shift this feeling of being herding along with no other choice but to follow and the 2 and a half-hour long bus trip, though meant with the best possible intentions, made me feel quite sick. Being shown so many different places you’ve never been to before, there was no guarantee at all I would be able to find my way again. And true to my lack of sense of directions, when I tried taking us back to some of those places, we ended up driving for a long time without getting anywhere except a growing sense of frustration. Still, with a map, which we know have acquired, it was good of the school to try their best to make us feel at home.

Our first week ended with a 5-day weekend ahead of us, thanks to Hari Raya and the generous Sultan’s decree of adding an extra day off, and plans were made, if not entirely successful! There is time, plenty of time.



Sunday, August 5, 2012

Malaysia, Pulau Pangkor


Malaysia, Pulau Pangkor, Pangkor Bay View Beach Resort J
From Thursday 2nd to Thursday 9th August: a week by the sea…

We arrived around 1pm and to get to the island of Pangkor, we found out at the airport we had two options: the bus or the taxi. Initially the plan was to take the bus but… the next one for Lumut, the ferry port on the mainland, was at 3pm; it would take 5 hours and the last ferry was at 7pm. We would have to stay the night in Lumut and lose our first night at the hotel. We were left with one option only if we wanted to be on the island that evening and that was a taxi. So be it! The journey took 3 and a half hours but we made it to the ferry on time. Quite a long day of transfer: tuktuk to the airport in Vientiane (a dead city at 6.45am and barely any taxis or tuktuks in sight!), plane, taxi, ferry and a pink taxi on the island (they’re all pink vans with a yellow roof, you can’t miss them!).

I knew it was the rainy season in the summer in this part of the world, I didn’t realise however that it was low season. After checking in we went in search of a restaurant and it was like searching for the Holy Grail, almost. The shops, cafés, restaurants along the beach front are closed and there are only a few restaurants open. Not an issue. There’s a market in town that looked great.

Our first day was glorious: a beautiful sun, a beautiful and deserted beach- it was like we were on our own private beach, on our own private bay with a couple of smaller islands on either side of it providing such an idyllic view. It really is stunning here. To top it all, no hawkers or sellers of any kind to bother us every five minutes. We did nothing. Exactly what we wanted to end our summer holiday. In the evening we went into town for dinner and were looking forward to the market we had spotted leaving the ferry port. South-East Asia never ceases to surprise: the market was in fact a take-away market, no seats anywhere to eat. That was not going to stop us from sampling what looked like very nice food. And it was! We bought kebabs, samosas, rotis and drinks in a bag with a straw and found a bench at the taxi park to have a picnic for dinner. Hilarious!

But it is proving less ideal and less fun for others: I was writing an email in the corridor (there’s no connection in the room). Imagine a hotel made of several buildings and they’re all connected by way of stairs and open-air corridors, a slight breeze brushing past as you are sitting quite comfortably in an armchair. Quite delightful! A young Austrian couple says hello and asks if they can ask me a few questions. Of course! How long have we been here? How long are we staying? What is there to do? What have we done? Etc…  Suddenly, a shock of surprise on their faces when I told them we were here for a week. A week! You must be mad! And though they didn’t say that or ask me why, they thought it strongly. There’s actually more to do than one thinks: renting a motorbike for the day, going for a boat ride or other water activity, trekking in the mountain and so on. I relayed this information to them and despite the fact that they were glad to hear it, they were very disappointed and had decided to leave earlier than planned. They kept referring to the lack of restaurants, in total disbelief. The choice is not great but you can eat! We have found a different place everyday as it happens.

The following morning at breakfast it was like history repeats itself. A young French couple, this time, asks us the very same questions and got the very same answers. Now, I wondered what it was with this place or these people. We booked, like they did, a hotel on an island by the beach because we wanted to rest, relax and enjoy the beach. Why did they come here? 



Link to pictures:
file://localhost/Users/angeliquegougeon/Documents/Picasa%20HTML%20Exports/Malaysia,%20Pulau%20Pangkor,%20August%202012/index.html

Wednesday, August 1, 2012

Laos, Luang Prabang and Vientiane


Halolao Home Stay, Luang Prabang
After a very short flight, probably the shortest ever, a taxi took us to our hotel called a “Home Stay” which could have been anything. As it turned out, it was a clean, a new house with a few rooms to let. It was nice actually to find ourselves in a hard building again and to sleep without our little friends the ants and other beasts that have fun during the night in the jungle at the ecolodge. Though the adventure was great, it is not for everyone!

We strolled down the main street of Luang Prabang trying to find our bearings which doesn’t take that long. It is not a big place. But Luang Prabang is the must-go-to place in Laos in all the guidebooks and it is very beautiful. The architecture looks extremely colonial and all the houses are built upon the same architectural model, definite French influences. Definitely very pretty! There are a great many temples, another reason for visitors here. On a sad note, however, being so talked about in the guides, it is swarming with foreign tourists and as much as there’s nothing wrong with that, everyone caters to them, from breakfast menus to guest houses and happy hours etc… The local economy rests on them spending as much as possible.

Coming here, we knew there wasn’t a lot to do in town but that there were several options for day trips and the likes. True enough, the main street comprises mainly of eating and sleeping places, and local tour operators to take you to that village or that cave or that waterfall. What we decided to do on our second day was to rent bicycles, take the ferry across and go to a pottery village. We never made it to the village that day and we weren’t the only ones to declare defeat at the sight of the muddy path. On our way there, we met a French couple who, like us but on foot, had wanted to trek to the pottery village and were retreating. Our bikes got stuck in the thick mud and it was quite an art getting back on the road. However, the day was still young so we continued biking through the countryside and the villages. It rains so much here that a river had gone over a small bridge and this allowed us to wash the bikes and for Leo to have a swim. He joined younger children who were also having fun in the river. Quite a nice and fun day! 
Kuang Si Waterfall was our destination the following day. We hired a TukTuk and though it was raining quite hard, the view from the top of the waterfall was magnificent. We climbed the dodgy path (there’s no sense of safety yet, no proper steps and no railings and it was really dodgy- watching people climb back down did not inspire me at all, still we climbed…) and when we got to the top, you could walk across which gave you a view of the waterfall and of the valley deep in the mountains. Spectacular views! Carrying on we discovered another path down that was less difficult and less dangerous than the way up. Later on, the boys swam in one of the pools at the bottom of the waterfall and jumped off a tree branch dozens of times. Great fun!

On our third day the weather looked like it would hold so we rented bicycles again and went exploring in and around town. Something to add about renting bicycles here: it is always an adventure and for Leo the adventure turned into a bit of a nightmare each time. The chain came off the first day about a hundred times. That day, one of the tyres was flat and we had it repaired, then the chain came off again and again… it was becoming a drag I have to say. Endurance and resolve! Two mottos when travelling.

For our last day we had figured it would be good to go on a boat trip since we had walked, cycled, taken the TukTuk but no boat as yet. And this time we made it to the pottery village. We were going to visit two villages but our boat was less than charming or secure… and our visit at the village left us with a bitter taste in the mouth. What a scam! Not only was it raining which didn’t lift our spirits but the visit was so disappointing that we asked the man to take us back to Luang Prabang, we’d had enough. We hadn’t been made to feel like cash machines in a long time but that afternoon was exactly like that. We chilled for the rest of the day.

Luang Prabang’s geographical situation is quite interesting: the town lies between and along the Mekong River and its tributary that joins it in a curb on that far east side of town. This provides a stark and striking contrast between the town, its rich and affluent houses and tourists buying textiles, going places etc… and the locals who live on its opposite banks in the jungle and countryside. I have been most amazed by that. However, where there were only a few houses/ huts or villages on the other side of town 7 or 8 years ago, there are now many and many local businesses that, I hope, strive from the booming tourism in town. Houses like in Luang Prabang are never going to be built on the other side of the river or the Mekong but the ripple effect of tourism allows for the villagers to develop too. And though a town with merits such as beautiful views, an ideal location and stunning architecture, it is with mixed feelings that we left. The juxtaposition of wealth and poverty, clean streets and dirt roads where people live in dirty houses, has given me food for thought.

Naphavong Guest house, Vientiane
In Vientiane for one day only and I will have to agree with the guidebooks on that one, this capital city does not offer much to stay longer. It is not necessarily the lack of activities but more the lack of buzz. It feels apathetic.

We decided to go to the Army Museum, as with three boys, tanks and the likes are always interesting and they have visited many temples over our five years in Asia so fair enough. Unfortunately, it was closed for lunch when we arrived- the French may have a lot to answer for there! Never mind, we went back toward town and stopped at the Victory Monument, a replica or sort of replica of the Arc the Triomphe in Paris, built by the French. Not too impressive but a seven-storey high building that deserves a stop all the same. There are a great many temples and Buddhist monks in their orange dress holding a black umbrella roam the streets endlessly (we’ve all seen those paintings or postcards, right?). They are part of the population and there is something reassuring about that. Too often religion has been a reason for war, oppression or discrimination, but in Laos the monks are supported and according to people we spoke to, everyone experiences that life once in their lives for however long they want. It is like a pilgrimage.

Final thoughts
Our two weeks in Laos have been enlightening in many respects. We expected it to be cheaper than China, it isn’t; but unlike China, the prices they charge are not warranted. We always say we get what we pay for in China. Here, you don’t even get what you pay for! Laos needs foreigners and tourism must be the way for the economy to develop. However, villages are not kept and though they drag the interest of the tourists, they don’t seem to have any pride in what they show. Then, you have Lao people’s prices vs foreigners’ prices in museums and such places, in view of all and in English as well as in Lao. Quite amazing to blatantly display the difference!

I am glad we came. I am not sure we’ll ever come back, however. If we did, we’d only stay a couple of days in each place and see more of the country. Having said that, we have no regrets.