Chapter 13...end: Bali- Part 5: Tulamben and Legian

Off to Tulamben, merely a village on the eastern coastal road and if it weren’t for a Japanese shipwreck from WWII, there would sadly be no reason to go there. What attracts people to Tulamben is the diving opportunities. Upon arrival, though, the sea was raging and we were told by a diving centre that since we were beginners, it wasn’t ideal. We decided to wait until the next day and decide what to do, then. That afternoon, we rented scooters and went exploring to Amed, 20 kms of hotels, restaurants and villagers along the coast. Magnificent views, black sand and pebbled beaches. No one was either snorkelling, diving or swimming since the sea was so rough. Not a good omen! Not everything was lost, however, as we stumbled upon a sort of market place that was hosting a cockfight. First time for everything! The locals were going wild with the fights and it is gruesome. Only one possible outcome: 1 cockerel has to die. All bets are off! We were asked if we wanted to bet but politely declined. Little did we know as we were looking for a way to the beach that we would happen upon a totally illegal cockfight. Back at the hotel we thought of a plan B and made arrangements to leave the next morning and go back to Legian since the sea didn’t look like it would calm down. It was the right move as people shared they had less than 1 meter visibility and so what was the point of diving, then?

The drive back to Legian took close to three hours due to the traffic and narrow roads in the mountains. Plenty of time to talk with our driver who was a lovely man and was quite happy to have a chat. I asked him all sorts of questions about the Balinese culture and ways, and he very nicely obliged. He explained the cockfight was actually illegal, as we thought, but that the police knew it was going on and since they now and again raided it and fined people, they let it go on as it provides them with a source of revenue. Corrupt government bodies are rife in many parts of the world. We talked about religion as that day was a special ceremony and many people were dressed for the temple and carrying offerings everywhere. Balinese are very religious, something that strikes you as you land in Bali. He, himself, however, said he wasn’t particularly religious but believes in karma (90% of Balinese are Hindu) so funerals are a very serious rite of passage, one that costs unbelievable amounts of money and for people like him who live in villages and earn little, affording a funeral is tough. So, what they do is bury the body first until they can pay or they wait until several people have died and share the cost of the burial ceremony and fees, unearth the bodies/ bones (some are buried for years before they receive their proper burial) and send them off properly to their next life. He also explained that they put the ashes in coconut shells and in the water, a river, the sea, any body of water as this is the natural element ashes should return to. Fascinating conversation.

Legian was our final destination for the remainder of our days in Bali. No disappointment there. Enormous waves you could have fun into, sun all day, a nice way to end our holiday.

Back to the village early August after a stop in Singapore.

Link to video of the beach and waves in Legian (lien pour la video des vagues):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKX5EB5j0Nk&feature=em-upload_owner

Link to video of cockfighting (lien pour la video du combat de coqs):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4-b978DpftE&feature=em-upload_owner

Chapter 13... continued: Bali- Part 4: Ubud

Ubud was next on our list and though five days might be a stretch for some, there’s plenty to do and see. Ubud is known as the cultural and artistic heart of Bali and plenty of art there is. Plenty of everything, really, as well as plenty of hagglers. Quite a shock after a week of peace and quiet. Haggling here takes on an almost alien dimension. We’ve lived and travelled a fair bit in Asia for the last six years and I can’t recall a place where the locals are that aggressive or relentless. The trick is to avoid eye contact, though they will still call you, jerk adverts or products in your face, if you walk on, though, you’re good. But it gets to you as it is constant haggling, even when riding a scooter! Picture this: we had rented scooters on our second day to ride through the various villages that surround Ubud when this guy, on his scooter too, asked us if we wanted a taxi service! Seriously! That’s another level of haggling altogether. Another inside secret is shopping for the best taxi ride to our next place, Tulamben. Prices ranged from 700.000 to 400.000 rupiah. But the best was yet to come: when I told a guy I had been offered 400.000 he told me he would get me to Amed for that price because Tulamben was too far. The only issue is we weren’t going to Amed. Hahahha. Got to laugh at that one. Bargaining a price, I can see, but bargaining a lesser ride, I had not experienced before! Let’s not change topic yet. Money makes the world go round, as the saying goes.  And unfortunately in poorer countries, people try to make as much as they can. Whilst I understand the principle, I really hate being cheated. It’s theft, purely and simply. First “misunderstanding” at the money exchange bureau: the guy tried and was very apologetic when I recounted the money only to find it was short. Not nice! Second “misunderstanding” was in a shop this time. Unexpected and very unpleasant experience too. As I was paying, the lady gave me a price that didn’t seem right. She hadn’t put it through the till so I asked her for the receipt, she went to check and again apologised for the wrong price, higher, that goes without saying. Then she says she doesn’t have any change and offers me sweets instead! “Is ok, sweets?” “Pardon?” “Is ok, sweets, no change.” Well. At that point I just left.

In Ubud, we walked around the very pretty town, rode out to the outer villages. We took a tour and visited gorgeous Hindu temples amongst which Goa Gajah or Elephant Cave Temple, Gunung Kawi, went to Lake Batur and admired the volcano. We even saw the tip of the volcano as they sky cleared. On the way back to Ubud, we stopped at a coffee plantation and marvelled at the rice paddies and how they are carved and sculpted in the hills in Tegallalang. Our hotel, the Bliss Spa resort, was on the outskirts of town among the rice fields. Very beautiful too. Overall, a lovely time.

More photos on google+. :)

Chapter 13: Bali- Part 3: Lombok

Our next stop was Kuta in Lombok, a much bigger island than Gili Ail and much busier. Again, hotels, warungs (traditional Indonesian restaurants), cafes and shops built out of not much line the beach in Kuta. We rented scooters to go and explore and were not disappointed with our findings. Like many other novices, we stopped at the first beach we found on our way to … we weren’t set where we wanted to go, just ride and see where it takes us. Very pretty spot but the beach was littered with all sorts of rubbish and it was actually quite unpleasant to swim there so we moved on, rode through villages, along the most varied shades of greens of the hills, rice paddies, slowing down for the herds of cows to arrive at an almost private beach at Selong Belanak, South Lombok. What a beauty! No need to go any further. Two days of relaxation on a postcard! And yes, the cows go to the beach too! :)

Still Chapter 13: Bali- Part 2: Gili Air

We had booked transport from the hotel in Legian to Gili Air and though a bit pricey, much more comfortable than working things out for ourselves.

Stepping out of the ferry, we were welcome by horses and carts. No cars on Gili Air and it reminded me of one of my favourite places in France, L’Ile de Brehat. I just loved the peace and calm feel to this island, not to mention the architecture of the houses and traditional pointed huts with thatch roofs and wooden doors, absolutely magnificent. Our goal was to take our open-water diving course and learn how to dive. At the end of the three-day course, we all passed. Stupidly or just naively, I realised what diving was all about: admiring marine life and swimming with fish. I don’t know why I hadn’t put it into these terms before but I smiled during one of the dives- got water in my mask as a result but we had been taught how they get rid of it so I was quite proud of my skill (one of the few I mastered, but never mind)- and realised I was in a big aquarium watching the underwater life: tortoises, myriads of fish, we recorded it all in our dive log, as one does when diving! We had booked our course with www.giliairdivers.com and they were excellent. We stayed at Omah Gili, a beautiful hotel just a 100 meters from the beach. On our last morning, before heading out to Lombok, we took a stroll across the island and along the beach. Delightful, really. Even though we live in a village in the jungle, let’s face it, there’s not much to Brunei, Gili Air on the other hand is unforgettable. One of the local diving instructors is from the island and has been as far as Lombok in his life, mainly through lack of money, but it does put things in perspectives. Gili Air might be what I see in my head when I think of paradise!

See you in Part 3 :)

PS: Apologies if you're received many emails. It took a while and many tries to upload. :)

Brunei- Chapter 13: Bali- Part 1: Legian

What a beautiful and enchanting place Bali is! Many say Bali makes a lasting impression on you and I would have to agree.

As a first time, we built ourselves a discovery itinerary: Legian for a couple of days, Gili Air to do our open-water diving certificate, Kuta in Lombok, Ubud and Tulamben.

Legian is on the west coast of Bali and is one of the places along this amazingly long stretch of beach, between Kuta and Seminyak. A busy, westernised beach with hawkers, corner shops, cafes, bars and restaurants, and hundreds of hotels. The beach there, though, is quite something. Surfers love the waves and swimmers need to pay attention or they may get caught between a surfer and his board… The boys had they very first surfing lesson and oh my god is it difficult! It looks deceptively easy but… it takes a while to get the hang of it. Quite funny to watch!

After two days of lazying on the beach, swimming in the rain (might as well get wet good and proper), we made our way to Gili Air, one of the three Gilis between Bali and Lombok. 

See you in Part 2 :)