Monday, August 27, 2012

Brunei- Chapter 1: Arriving and settling in


Week 1 has come and gone, with its share of anticipation, excitement and mild frustration. Brunei is after all an Asian country!

Upon arrival at the airport, we were met by the Secondary Principal, his family and the Operations Manager, Leona, a bubbly energetic woman. Though she “bosses” people around, her motherly personality means she will look after us and make sure we have everything we need. “No point in calling other people, they will always call me anyway so you might as well call me first!” This was established within the first week and I have to say that to know you can call someone who will have the answers and will help is not to be scorned at, even if the form might be lacking.  

Our first impressions of the country was through its airport, and although not very big and not very busy, it was very much like any airport: getting our visas on arrival requested patience as the clerk stamped and handwrote and signed and stamped again each one of our passports. Luckily there was no queue. Perhaps the one aspect that differs is that you are restricted to how much alcohol you bring into the country and you have to declare it filling in a form- but we had been warned and played the game dutifully.

Whilst we were driven to our new abode- a large house with a garden off one of the main roads called Jalan Muara, which happens to be a few kilometres from the school, a few kilometres from the city centre, Bandar Seri Begawan or BSB, and a few kilometres from anywhere really, it hit me that we had turned a new leaf in our book and were starting all over again. A slight pang of a mixture of sadness and anxiety took over my entire body as I realised for the first time in 5 years that we were not on holiday but that we would have to learn everything again. China had become our home and after each holiday we would go back to familiar grounds. Not this time. That feeling, however, passed quickly and arriving at our house where we were greeted by Noor, the HR manager who is as bubbly with laughing eyes as Leona, it helped forget how I had felt a little while back.  We had seen pictures of the house but what a great feeling it was to actually be there. I don’t think we ever lived in such a big house before- 4 bedrooms upstairs with two bathrooms, a large kitchen, a larger living-room, another room/office and another bathroom downstairs. Not to mention the garden, big enough to set our badminton net, play football and grow plants and trees, a newly-discovered passion of Augustin’s. Nothing is small in this country, apparently. And since our first day in Brunei, we have been invited to a couple of people and it is true, their houses are big too.

Living on Jalan Muara feels like living in the countryside. Smaller roads, called Simpangs, are off the main roads and take you to habitations. Easy enough to get around. Along the roads, mini-marts and small complexes offer pretty much everything you need. For more, the city centre of BSB is just down the road; the beaches, national parks etc… are also only down the road.

Starting again meant learning a lot and being ready for surprises. Our first big surprise was that our shipment had arrived (on time!), had been cleared and delivered so when we got there, all our boxes were waiting for us. What a relief! Listening to stories from other new staff, some would have to wait several weeks and that is not fun. We were able to unpack and settle in very quickly. And now, it feels like home. Another huge surprise was our car! The school had rented a car for a month for all new members of staff to help us while we were settling in. I knew that we would have to get a car but I didn’t realise how crucial it actually was. The roads are not biker-friendly to say the least; we may have only encountered a handful of people on bikes since we’ve been here. We’ll still ride but to go to school, shopping and whatnot, driving is preferable, allows so much more and since we are not strictly speaking in town, there are no taxis you can hail. There are a few buses but we have yet to work out where they stop and at what time. It seems sensible to use a car.

We spent our first weekend getting acquainted with our new surroundings, finding places to shop, trying out new restaurants… The following week was induction week and it felt more like social events than work planned by the school- not that I will complain. The management of the school was keen for new teachers and their families to make them feel welcome and show them around in order to establish a routine, I think. Not a bad idea!

First on the agenda was getting the medical done for me in order to get our Identity Cards. With your IC, you can buy or rent a car etc… Next, sort out the internet which proved a hurdle and a major drawback: no connection for 4 weeks. I should mention that we arrived a week before the end of the Ramadan and this changes everything. To top it all, the Sultan has generously declared an extra day of holiday. A new country, a new culture, a new way of doings things. We found that trying to eat out around 6pm during the fasting period was not a good idea: it is the time when the Muslims break their fast and all the restaurants, and I mean all of them are booked up. We were turned away a few times and decided it would be wise to either order a takeaway or delay. However, since we couldn’t get in one of the restaurants we had been recommended, we found others that we really liked. Nothing will deter us from going out, it seems. So Sagar, a North-Indian restaurant, might just become one of our regular haunt; the food is so good, we had dinner there once, and takeout the following day.

During our first week into our new life in Brunei, we went on a boat ride through the mangrove and were lucky enough to see some monkeys and lizards lazying in the sun on the banks of the river. There is a water village across the waterfront where people live in stilt houses and water taxis take you to visit some of the houses or the school. Quite a sight we had not seen before. An array of colours and houses on legs living on the river! On the second day there was a walk in the jungle organised for later in the afternoon when the crunch of the sun would not be so fierce. The city of Bandar is built in the jungle and one of the national parks, Tasek Lama, offers walks and pathways of different levels of difficulty. Leo went on the easy one that leads to the waterfall whilst Seb and I chose the more harduous one which was rendered harder by the heat. How we sweated! But the views were absolutely magnificent and so rewarding, it was a joy. Another walk was planned for the following day which we wanted to do but Leo took ill and we had to decline. Sadly too, we also had to decline going to Temburong, a day out we had been looking forward to and missed out, this time, on one of the most amazing day trips on offer in Brunei. It will only give us a better excuse to take our visitors there! On the Tuesday morning of that week, HR had planned a bus trip to show us around the city. I was never one to enjoy guided tours and this one was as predicted: I couldn’t shift this feeling of being herding along with no other choice but to follow and the 2 and a half-hour long bus trip, though meant with the best possible intentions, made me feel quite sick. Being shown so many different places you’ve never been to before, there was no guarantee at all I would be able to find my way again. And true to my lack of sense of directions, when I tried taking us back to some of those places, we ended up driving for a long time without getting anywhere except a growing sense of frustration. Still, with a map, which we know have acquired, it was good of the school to try their best to make us feel at home.

Our first week ended with a 5-day weekend ahead of us, thanks to Hari Raya and the generous Sultan’s decree of adding an extra day off, and plans were made, if not entirely successful! There is time, plenty of time.



Sunday, August 5, 2012

Malaysia, Pulau Pangkor


Malaysia, Pulau Pangkor, Pangkor Bay View Beach Resort J
From Thursday 2nd to Thursday 9th August: a week by the sea…

We arrived around 1pm and to get to the island of Pangkor, we found out at the airport we had two options: the bus or the taxi. Initially the plan was to take the bus but… the next one for Lumut, the ferry port on the mainland, was at 3pm; it would take 5 hours and the last ferry was at 7pm. We would have to stay the night in Lumut and lose our first night at the hotel. We were left with one option only if we wanted to be on the island that evening and that was a taxi. So be it! The journey took 3 and a half hours but we made it to the ferry on time. Quite a long day of transfer: tuktuk to the airport in Vientiane (a dead city at 6.45am and barely any taxis or tuktuks in sight!), plane, taxi, ferry and a pink taxi on the island (they’re all pink vans with a yellow roof, you can’t miss them!).

I knew it was the rainy season in the summer in this part of the world, I didn’t realise however that it was low season. After checking in we went in search of a restaurant and it was like searching for the Holy Grail, almost. The shops, cafés, restaurants along the beach front are closed and there are only a few restaurants open. Not an issue. There’s a market in town that looked great.

Our first day was glorious: a beautiful sun, a beautiful and deserted beach- it was like we were on our own private beach, on our own private bay with a couple of smaller islands on either side of it providing such an idyllic view. It really is stunning here. To top it all, no hawkers or sellers of any kind to bother us every five minutes. We did nothing. Exactly what we wanted to end our summer holiday. In the evening we went into town for dinner and were looking forward to the market we had spotted leaving the ferry port. South-East Asia never ceases to surprise: the market was in fact a take-away market, no seats anywhere to eat. That was not going to stop us from sampling what looked like very nice food. And it was! We bought kebabs, samosas, rotis and drinks in a bag with a straw and found a bench at the taxi park to have a picnic for dinner. Hilarious!

But it is proving less ideal and less fun for others: I was writing an email in the corridor (there’s no connection in the room). Imagine a hotel made of several buildings and they’re all connected by way of stairs and open-air corridors, a slight breeze brushing past as you are sitting quite comfortably in an armchair. Quite delightful! A young Austrian couple says hello and asks if they can ask me a few questions. Of course! How long have we been here? How long are we staying? What is there to do? What have we done? Etc…  Suddenly, a shock of surprise on their faces when I told them we were here for a week. A week! You must be mad! And though they didn’t say that or ask me why, they thought it strongly. There’s actually more to do than one thinks: renting a motorbike for the day, going for a boat ride or other water activity, trekking in the mountain and so on. I relayed this information to them and despite the fact that they were glad to hear it, they were very disappointed and had decided to leave earlier than planned. They kept referring to the lack of restaurants, in total disbelief. The choice is not great but you can eat! We have found a different place everyday as it happens.

The following morning at breakfast it was like history repeats itself. A young French couple, this time, asks us the very same questions and got the very same answers. Now, I wondered what it was with this place or these people. We booked, like they did, a hotel on an island by the beach because we wanted to rest, relax and enjoy the beach. Why did they come here? 



Link to pictures:
file://localhost/Users/angeliquegougeon/Documents/Picasa%20HTML%20Exports/Malaysia,%20Pulau%20Pangkor,%20August%202012/index.html

Wednesday, August 1, 2012

Laos, Luang Prabang and Vientiane


Halolao Home Stay, Luang Prabang
After a very short flight, probably the shortest ever, a taxi took us to our hotel called a “Home Stay” which could have been anything. As it turned out, it was a clean, a new house with a few rooms to let. It was nice actually to find ourselves in a hard building again and to sleep without our little friends the ants and other beasts that have fun during the night in the jungle at the ecolodge. Though the adventure was great, it is not for everyone!

We strolled down the main street of Luang Prabang trying to find our bearings which doesn’t take that long. It is not a big place. But Luang Prabang is the must-go-to place in Laos in all the guidebooks and it is very beautiful. The architecture looks extremely colonial and all the houses are built upon the same architectural model, definite French influences. Definitely very pretty! There are a great many temples, another reason for visitors here. On a sad note, however, being so talked about in the guides, it is swarming with foreign tourists and as much as there’s nothing wrong with that, everyone caters to them, from breakfast menus to guest houses and happy hours etc… The local economy rests on them spending as much as possible.

Coming here, we knew there wasn’t a lot to do in town but that there were several options for day trips and the likes. True enough, the main street comprises mainly of eating and sleeping places, and local tour operators to take you to that village or that cave or that waterfall. What we decided to do on our second day was to rent bicycles, take the ferry across and go to a pottery village. We never made it to the village that day and we weren’t the only ones to declare defeat at the sight of the muddy path. On our way there, we met a French couple who, like us but on foot, had wanted to trek to the pottery village and were retreating. Our bikes got stuck in the thick mud and it was quite an art getting back on the road. However, the day was still young so we continued biking through the countryside and the villages. It rains so much here that a river had gone over a small bridge and this allowed us to wash the bikes and for Leo to have a swim. He joined younger children who were also having fun in the river. Quite a nice and fun day! 
Kuang Si Waterfall was our destination the following day. We hired a TukTuk and though it was raining quite hard, the view from the top of the waterfall was magnificent. We climbed the dodgy path (there’s no sense of safety yet, no proper steps and no railings and it was really dodgy- watching people climb back down did not inspire me at all, still we climbed…) and when we got to the top, you could walk across which gave you a view of the waterfall and of the valley deep in the mountains. Spectacular views! Carrying on we discovered another path down that was less difficult and less dangerous than the way up. Later on, the boys swam in one of the pools at the bottom of the waterfall and jumped off a tree branch dozens of times. Great fun!

On our third day the weather looked like it would hold so we rented bicycles again and went exploring in and around town. Something to add about renting bicycles here: it is always an adventure and for Leo the adventure turned into a bit of a nightmare each time. The chain came off the first day about a hundred times. That day, one of the tyres was flat and we had it repaired, then the chain came off again and again… it was becoming a drag I have to say. Endurance and resolve! Two mottos when travelling.

For our last day we had figured it would be good to go on a boat trip since we had walked, cycled, taken the TukTuk but no boat as yet. And this time we made it to the pottery village. We were going to visit two villages but our boat was less than charming or secure… and our visit at the village left us with a bitter taste in the mouth. What a scam! Not only was it raining which didn’t lift our spirits but the visit was so disappointing that we asked the man to take us back to Luang Prabang, we’d had enough. We hadn’t been made to feel like cash machines in a long time but that afternoon was exactly like that. We chilled for the rest of the day.

Luang Prabang’s geographical situation is quite interesting: the town lies between and along the Mekong River and its tributary that joins it in a curb on that far east side of town. This provides a stark and striking contrast between the town, its rich and affluent houses and tourists buying textiles, going places etc… and the locals who live on its opposite banks in the jungle and countryside. I have been most amazed by that. However, where there were only a few houses/ huts or villages on the other side of town 7 or 8 years ago, there are now many and many local businesses that, I hope, strive from the booming tourism in town. Houses like in Luang Prabang are never going to be built on the other side of the river or the Mekong but the ripple effect of tourism allows for the villagers to develop too. And though a town with merits such as beautiful views, an ideal location and stunning architecture, it is with mixed feelings that we left. The juxtaposition of wealth and poverty, clean streets and dirt roads where people live in dirty houses, has given me food for thought.

Naphavong Guest house, Vientiane
In Vientiane for one day only and I will have to agree with the guidebooks on that one, this capital city does not offer much to stay longer. It is not necessarily the lack of activities but more the lack of buzz. It feels apathetic.

We decided to go to the Army Museum, as with three boys, tanks and the likes are always interesting and they have visited many temples over our five years in Asia so fair enough. Unfortunately, it was closed for lunch when we arrived- the French may have a lot to answer for there! Never mind, we went back toward town and stopped at the Victory Monument, a replica or sort of replica of the Arc the Triomphe in Paris, built by the French. Not too impressive but a seven-storey high building that deserves a stop all the same. There are a great many temples and Buddhist monks in their orange dress holding a black umbrella roam the streets endlessly (we’ve all seen those paintings or postcards, right?). They are part of the population and there is something reassuring about that. Too often religion has been a reason for war, oppression or discrimination, but in Laos the monks are supported and according to people we spoke to, everyone experiences that life once in their lives for however long they want. It is like a pilgrimage.

Final thoughts
Our two weeks in Laos have been enlightening in many respects. We expected it to be cheaper than China, it isn’t; but unlike China, the prices they charge are not warranted. We always say we get what we pay for in China. Here, you don’t even get what you pay for! Laos needs foreigners and tourism must be the way for the economy to develop. However, villages are not kept and though they drag the interest of the tourists, they don’t seem to have any pride in what they show. Then, you have Lao people’s prices vs foreigners’ prices in museums and such places, in view of all and in English as well as in Lao. Quite amazing to blatantly display the difference!

I am glad we came. I am not sure we’ll ever come back, however. If we did, we’d only stay a couple of days in each place and see more of the country. Having said that, we have no regrets.