Brunei- Chapter 7: KK

KK, for those-in-the-know, or Kota Kinabalu: our destination for a few days during half-term.

9.50pm is 9.50pm. But for some bizarre reason, ask me what my mind was thinking about that day when I booked, I read 9.50am. So, there we were at the airport that morning, 8.20, ready to check in for our flight, except that there was no flight announced on the  board and there I started to ... worry! We had to go back home for the day and come back later that evening. So, we did.

Our hotel was... awful, really. Won't even mention the name but never again. Luckily KK boasts beautiful islands a mere 15 minutes by boat and we spent our first day on Manukan Island. True bliss! Walking along the wooden jetty to reach the island, we were greeted by clear water with myriads of schools of fish swimming quite happily. The sky was glorious, the beach was delightful; snorkelling and swimming among the corals and striped blue and white fish definitely lived up to our expectations. A dream day, exactly what we had wished for. Then, around 4pm it started to rain. Our return was booked for 5pm. Nothing was going to spoil our day, though the return to KK was brutal: the drizzle turned into strong wind and lashing rain, coupled with fog which meant that not only were we soaked, cold but the guy sailing the boat was having a hard time finding his way, slowing down every so often. Still, he'd done the route millions of times, our fate was not in that dire a state as it could have been. Eventually we reached the jetty and walked back to our hotel for a well-deserved shower and a nice dinner out.

Our second day was spent on an another island: Sapi Island, a small one facing Gaya Island, the bigger one of all the islands. And again, the promise of a delightful day by the sea, snorkelling, swimming, resting... and being beaten by vicious black fish with a white spot. It seemed they were defending their corals, bless them. But, by God, were these small beasts vicious! And unafraid to come face-to-face with you when you were snorkelling. Quite something. Later on in the afternoon a monitor lizard was also swimming, and a bit too close to Leo for our own good. Initially it looked like a water-snake which is not much better, so we had a bit of a scare there- for a short while, that is, until it went on its way, probably feeling safer out of our way too. This time, though, we didn't stay as late as 5pm since it seems that the weather is trustworthy and reliable in its schedule. It rains everyday at about that time of day. Our return to shore was much more pleasant. Dinner of grilled fish and gambas (for the boys!) at the night market- delicious.

All in all, a lovely break. We had never been to KK before and chose to enjoy the islands this time around. Next time, we'll head for the national park and Mount Kinabalu.

Brunei- Chapter 6: Humour and bills

How to reconcile humour and paying the bills? Can it ever be fun to pay the bills? These might be questions that come to mind when reading the title of this chapter and yet, there's no mistake.

I was asked the other day what were in my view the biggest differences between China and Brunei, and I don't think I gave a good answer. Here are two: dealing with civil servants and the cost of utility bills. Whenever we had to go to a bureau in China, whoever was on the other of the desk would either not look at you and wave instead, or look at you sternly and eventually wave or shake his head in refusal- most times than none. You always felt like you bothered them and to be fair that is probably a correct reading of the situation. Here in Brunei, we provide entertainment! When Seb had to go and put units on the electricity card, he was nonplussed at the scene that had just taken place.
"How much, Sir?"
"100 dollars, please?" Not knowing how much it cost nor how much it would last, he thought that would be see us through a few weeks. Our only comparison was China. Peals of laughter came out of the two ladies behind the counter.
"Alright. So, how much is it? How does it work? What's the minimum, please?"
"Minimum 6 dollars."
"Ok. So, can I put 6 dollars on the card, please?" This sounded ridiculously low and he thought he'd have to go again soon but to avoid more laughter... Unfortunately, the ladies thought buying 6 dollars' worth of electricity was hysterically funny and they redoubled their laughter! Seb laughed too, more out of embarrassment at not knowing, not understanding why he had been such an entertainment to them. We still don't know to this day. This episode would fall under what is called, "cultural experiences". Still, 6 dollars of electricity lasted two weeks; that's about 30kwai.

If we thought electricity was cheap in China, Brunei produces more than needed, hence the cost. Water, though becoming rare in many places, is not only abundant here, but there's no word to describe its cost. If cheap applies to the cost of electricity, then water is "free": 5 dollars (or 25kwai) for two months. We'll just ignore that we have to pay a water bill as for that matter, it had gradually reached summits in China. I went back twice to the office to make sure I had heard right. There was no way it could be so low, and yet it is!

Brunei- Chapter 5: Jungle walking and the rain!

Fairy tales! Princesses and princes! Sultans and … Life isn’t a fairy tale. So be it! Time to be real again, and though there is more to life than fairy tales, is there really? Some experiences are beautiful and deeply gratifying like walking in the jungle (yes, the transition is awkward and weak... :) ).

Tasek Lama, Markuching, Shabandar and more. And no, it doesn’t get boring after a few times. There’s something magical every time (as well as “good exercise”, this Chinese guy kept saying to us today every time he passed us, funny!) about walking along the paths in the Bruneian jungle. Magnificent trees, with incredible roots that have fashioned paths and steps, so intertwined and snake-like you would feel like Tarzan at times… The beauty of the scenery from the ridges once you’ve reached to the top. The peace these trodden paths offer you makes you feel at one with nature, and although this has perhaps become a pedestrian way of looking at it, a cliche even, I don’t care. I get the same pleasure every time as if it were the first time. Now, how often does this happen, people? Exactly!

Nature is truly amazing and we forget too easily, sadly, particularly when living in large cities such as Beijing where, well, I will never join in the criticisms about the weather but I will say that nature has definitely struggled with man and man has so far conquered the city. Brunei seems to have made peace with nature and blended with it as best as was needed, however. And then, it rains! I’ve always hated the rain and that is probably one of the reasons why I loved Beijing so much- it’s dry. Coming from Normandy, I just hate the cold, damp feeling that the rain brings with it. Here, however, it’s always hot and yes, it does rain everyday but mostly at night and when it pours in the day, it’s actually fun and beautiful because it’s still hot. No shivers down your spine, no head colds, no feeling like a wet dog! Quite an upgrade. To tell the truth, I was worried about one thing only before moving to Brunei and it was my sheer hatred for the rain. Not anymore!

Link to the video of a storm!
http://youtu.be/4FbMED1mRTA

Brunei- Chapter 4: The Princess...

I would not normally talk about school here but…when you suddenly get a glimpse of the 1001 Nights in the land of the Sultan of Brunei, well, it deserves a mention.

Red carpet; a throne facing the stage; two armchairs one meter behind the throne on either side of it making a triangular shape; VIP chairs on each side of the read carpet and us, the commoners seated comfortably at the International Convention Centre to witness the official launch of the Polio Points initiative on Wednesday in the presence of Princess Sarah, the school patron, is an experience to remember. High Commissioners, Ambassadors and Bruneian ministers also attended this high profile ceremony which put our school in the media spotlight and there was something definitely grand and solemn about it. 

The uniqueness of this project is indescribable, really, so here are two links for you:

http://www.bt.com.bn/news-national/2012/10/11/isb-initiates-project-help-eradicate-polio

http://www.bt.com.bn/e-paper/index.html#/10/

Princess Sarah, a mother who brought her children to school in jeans and t-shirt that very morning, went back to the palace to get ready for this launch. I love that! Cinderella is real! A modern princess even if the protocol involved is definitely antiquated (all guests had to be seated half an hour before she arrived and had to remain seated half an hour after she left; every guest speaker had to approach her, be accompanied by a student and bow at her; her personal guard had to be on stage with her and a few feet away from her etc…) and burdensome.  The whole school arrived way before it started, however, once the ceremony began, silence reigned and it wasn’t just because it was to launch this beautiful initiative that our students are so proud of, I believe it was because Bruneians respect and love their Princess. The Royal family sends their children to our school, they are treated like normal people and most importantly are given a childhood but when duty calls… :)