Day 4 (Luoyang)

Friday 6^th July: Luoyang L

Our train was at 21.50 that evening so plenty of time today to go and explore the birth place of the Han dynasty in the old town of Luoyang, a 2-hour bus ride according to the guide. As guides go, ours dates from 2008 so we know that the prices have gone up, we didn’t know that the bus rides also increased with inflation! Here is how it went: at the bus station, Augustin and I were lining up when he heard a lady calling for “Luoyang! Luoyang!” he asked her what that was about and she was selling tickets. Usually, we’ve learnt never to buy anything off counter or take illegal taxis. But the tickets were ligit and had been bought at the counter so why not? She motioned to a guy who took us to a bus. We were meant to depart at 10.45. The bus arrived and it looked…dubious, not a bus you want to ride in for 2 hours. It was taking us to another station. Alright, what are we dealing with here? A parallel system? There, we boarded the bus at 10.45. After an hour and a half, we were still in Zhengzhou. We had been around Zhengzhou collecting people on the way in the most random places: around a corner at a junction, near a building site etc… Then, of course, it was breaktime for the driver! Time to go to the loo, time for a snack, time and time and time until he had finished his break. Quite infuriating, really! And there was nothing we could do. Once on the bus, stay on the bus and ride it.

We had timed our day so that we would have a few hours there to visit the old town, come back and take our night train to Suzhou. Eventually, the guy with the red T-shirt came back, started the engine and drove us off to Luoyang. Once there, the same as on the way there happened. He stopped several times to drop people off. I thought we were never going to get off. 3 and a half hours it took. So, the first thing we agreed to do was to buy the return tickets straight away and only buy for a direct bus back. Good thinking, though a guy on the bus told us we didn’t need to do that. As it turned out we did. China is a hard place for everyone: its own people, travellers, expats. You think you’ve gone through difficulties and that you’ve learnt the way but no.

At the counter, we were greeted by a really nice lady. Now, I have to say we have met very nice people along the way and it ahs helped tremendously. The fact that Augustin’s Chinese is superb and so fluent helps a great deal, that goes without saying. He has been able to communicate and sort out issues that might have been much greater were it not for his Chinese. I have lived in China for 5 years with no Chinese but when travelling it’s virtually impossible or expect all sorts! So, the lady at the counter told us that the last direct bus was at 4pm and that we should take it is we wanted to be back in time to board our train. Augustin had told her we needed to be back by 8pm for that reason. And, was she right? The direct bus took 3 hours! A nightmare!

We stayed in Luoyang for 1 hour and a half, had lunch and a walk around the bus station and that was it! I have to say that we had never had such a day: 6 and a half hours on a bus for nothing. This qualifies as a bad day if ever there was one. Had the guide been more accurate, we would not have chosen to go there for a day. Never mind. These things happen.

Back in Zhengzhou we went back to our little street food and had bbq again. It was easy and safe. Now, were off for 13 hours on the night train en route for Suzhou.

One reflection, though: there are many more Muslim people and restaurants in that part of China than in Beijing. We’ve always liked going to Muslim restaurants because their food is good and cheap, the people are welcoming,  and here we had plenty of places to choose from.

Friday 6^th July: night train to Suzhou L

21.50: time to board our train, 13 hours to Suzhou on hard seats. I had not experienced that before and it’s not fun. But patience and resolve are key. China is a hard place. 

Finding your seats doesn’t seem like an issue in any other country but here, they also sell standing tickets and people do that, either because they have fewer means or because that is all that is left and they must get to their destination so they put up with standing in the aisle. This also means that when you find your seats there is someone sitting in your place. Of course, that person knows and will move but the trains are extremely crowded and people stand against the side of the seats, hair in your face, elbows knocking against your forehead, that kind of thing. Leo and I sat together, Augustin and Seb across from us. Leo soon fell asleep and I tried all night to sleep a little but my neck was hurting really bad so I had to change position all the time and ended up half lying on top of Leo. Seb and Augustin barely slept and had to put up with a man eating out of a bag really smelly and disgusting food- and we’ve seen a lot in our five years in China, so that says a lot!